People who don’t enjoy food can skip this article. You can also skip ever hanging out with me again. You can skip right over the edge of my balcony for all I care.
Too much? Okay, different hook.
Gluttony is a sin. I vaguely remember it from that awful Brad Pitt movie Seven. But I think I piss God off in worse ways than when I enjoy a good steak. Besides, life is too short not to indulge in some gastronomic delights once in a while. Got yourself in a rut lately? Have you eaten one too many Z-Teca burritos, or has Chef Rodolfo’s tepid salmon made you wish the courts would just let them be overfished to extinction so it wouldn’t show up on your cafeteria lunch menu paired with chilly potatoes rösti yet again? Never fear. This is Toronto. There’s plenty of good food to be discovered.
So indulge me as I romp through some of my favourite places to rustle up some decent chow.
My first exposure to the culinary delights of Toronto was on campus last year, when I survived the gang shootouts and injection killings living in Passy Gardens. Needless to say, I was unimpressed with the offerings. Though the occasional 1 AM visit to the Falafel Hut for shawarma resulted in a satisfying snack, the fear of getting mugged really didn’t make the trip worthwhile. The butter chicken at the Indian place in York Lanes isn’t so bad either- but campus is really not the place to be exploring food options. Then I discovered the real city. My awakening had begun.
One of the first places I ventured to was Nirvana (College and Bathurst), a hipster hangout with an Asian twist. Plaid and moody boys reading Proust abound here, but you don’t have to listen to Bon Iver and wear a scarf to appreciate the Pad Thai and vermicelli with spring rolls and chicken. The prices are right and each meal comes with a leafy fresh salad with a tangy house dressing. I’ve never had a bad meal here, but the bathroom does leave something to be desired.
Across the street is Sneaky Dee’s, a Toronto institution for greasy Mexican, which makes the Nirvana bathroom look as freakishly clean as the bathrooms at law firms. This grimy place may lack some charm- the last table I ate at had the word “CUNT” carved into the middle- so it’s not somewhere to bring the parents when they visit- and the service leaves something to be desired (is it seat yourself or wait for a server that never arrives?) but the food is worth it. Knock back a Dos Equis with a plate of the King’s Crown nachos. I’ve had other things, but I continue to return to this heaping pile of cheesy, beefy goodness. With hidden beans underneath, it’s the gift that keeps giving. It may even keep giving tomorrow, but, well, you are eating Mexican in a place where newspaper clippings from the 80s crowd the walls and the waitress who takes styling tips from The Girl with a Dragon Tattoo may have just horked a good one onto the floor.
Cheap eats can be had in many places across the city, and one of my favourites is New Generation Sushi (Bloor and Bathurst). For me, it’s the best sushi in the city, though perhaps rivaled by the more expensive red or yellow carpet rolls at Asuka (Yorkville). Heaping bento boxes come with the obligatory but delicious salad and miso soup, and the rolls are always prepared well with fresh ingredients. The tiny place is always packed, but the staff rushing on their feet get diners in and out efficiently, so the wait is never very long. This place is also the site of a 2009 stabbing after a dispute between kitchen staff, so I knew it as Murder Sushi for the first four months of my time eating there before I actually learned its name. Who wouldn’t risk a minor organ perforation for delicious spicy salmon? Hmm? Their companion Korean Barbecue place down the street is also a good place to stop.
So, you fancy, huh? Is it hob-nobbing with society wives and Canadian “celebrities” you’d enjoy instead? (Spotted- Cheryl Hickey. Squee!) Happy to oblige. Out of the way, but fabulous, is Scaramouche (Avenue and St. Clair). Tucked into an apartment building with a million-dollar view, this 80s throwback French restaurant is worth the trip to discover its’ hard to find location. As any good menu does, it is seasonal, but the favourites are still there. I gorged myself on the delights of duck- a terrine of Quebec duck foie gras with cranberries and pearl onions, followed by partridge with wild mushrooms, a potato latke and a healthy piece of grilled foie gras. Top this off with a piece of their famed coconut cream pie- with big shaved pieces of white chocolate on top so divine, you’re sure you’re eating coconut silk- and you’ll be belting out Queen at the top of your lungs from the table as the pearl-bedecked matriarchs at the next table drop their salad forks in horror. Divine, but pricey (mains are typically in the $40 range), this is definitely a destination restaurant.
When the haute-bourgeoisie tire from a morning of skipping round from Prada to Chanel to Louis Vuitton, before they buy that Balenciaga bag downstairs, they go upstairs at Holt Renfrew to the Holts Café (Bloor and Yonge). This chic, well decorated lunch spot faces onto Bloor below. Enjoy a glass of prosecco and an open-faced chicken sandwich with arugula and drizzled truffle oil as you people-watch. The room is filled with fashionista fag hags and their equally stylish gay shopping buddies. How do you think I was there? Duh.
Just up Yonge is what I will call the best sandwich in the city. A tall order, to be sure, but nothing has surpassed the pulled pork at Black Camel (Rosedale Subway Station) yet. Except maybe their brisket. Private school kids on their lunch hours line up with construction workers from up the street to sample the delights therein. The menu is simple, laid out on the chalkboard above the cash. There are five or six sandwiches to pick from, all the same price, and include 2 condiments for free. I usually splurge and add a couple of things. Thinking about the brisket with BBQ sauce, pesto mayo, arugula, fontina cheese and caramelized onions makes me drool. No seriously, I’m drooling now. You need a whole roll of paper towels to devour this thing, wedged between a crusty Portuguese roll, but it’s worth dripping Charamoula mayo on your polo just to sample this bit of heaven.
Asking a group of Torontonians where to get the best pizza in the city is sure to start a conversation for at least twenty minutes. The usual suspects will appear, like Pizzeria Libretto and Terroni, while some will swear by Pizzaiolo’s Bianca. The one who says Pizza Pizza should be stood against a brick wall and shot. But I’m going to throw in a curveball and place my vote for Pizza e Pazzi (Dufferin and St. Clair). Quickly becoming a hot little place (make a reservation- Sunday night, we waited 45 minutes), Pizza e Pazzi prides themselves on creating authentic Neapolitan pizza. That means abiding by a few simple rules- wheat flour, Neapolitan yeast, baking at 905o for 60-90 seconds- oh, and no pineapple. Grazie mille, because the Hawaiians have always failed to produce a decent cuisine. Poi anyone? The result is a melt-in-your-mouth decadent experience that immediately sent me back to when I ate a slice of pizza in a town outside Naples. It’s that good. Ribbons of prosciutto with a healthy dose of mozzarella- belissima. My dining companion thoroughly enjoyed her breakfast pizza- egg and bacon- and we finished with a pizza covered in nutella with brandy-soaked bananas. The pasta is also excellent, the wine list short but decent and the service fantastic. Their mushroom gnocchi was enough to make a bad date I had there completely tolerable, and if the waiter who was serving me that night is reading this, call me!
Finally, for something a little out of the ordinary, I recommend the fantastic Moroccan cuisine at Tabülè (Yonge and Eg). This little place hidden behind a non-descript front doesn’t betray the orgasmic delights inside. Seriously. Forget your bottle of Hugo Boss- just dab a bit of the sauce created by the garlic tomatoes on your wrist and let me lick it off. The dishes are best shared with the table, so order a few different things. The warm pita bread is best dipped into the smoky hummus, the best I’ve ever had, and then used later with the lamb kefta that comes with heaps of grilled vegetables and rice. The dark ambiance makes this a great place to bring a date, or perhaps to squeeze into a corner table with your mistress. This is definitely food for lovers.
And there are so many others- the piri-piri with onion potatoes at Churrasco of St. Clair, the veal parm with vinegar peppers and Brio at California Sandwiches, the yellow curry at Salad King, the steak with mushrooms and chimicurri sauce at Jacobs & Co, the chorizo-stuffed Cornish hen at Sassafraz, the turkey, tomato and onion grilled cheese at the aptly-named The Grilled Cheese, dim sum with those delectable deep-fried squid tentacles at Rol San and the crab cakes and sliders at Morton’s half-price appetizer hour- one place that I’ve frequented more times than I can remember is that old Toronto standard: Fran’s (College and Yonge). I’ve been there so frequently, I feel like episodic moments of my life are playing out beneath the mint green walls and mirrors all around. I’ve brunched with pals over eggs benedict, dated over omelettes, gossiped and bitched over chicken parm and talked about the concerns of my future over meatloaf. I’ve been there at 9AM, 1PM, 10PM and 3AM. I recognize the servers and the kitschy 90s music playing on the jukebox. Good food. Good service. Cheap prices. No frills. This for me is what dining out is all about. It’s the place of memories, and the recognition that you’ll always go back for more. These memories can be created at bad restaurants- I am no longer welcome back at the Yorkville Mall Pickle Barrel due to some alcohol-fuelled… unpleasantness…- but it’s better when the food is decent.
People get themselves stuck in the same ruts, preparing the same old crap at home (I’m sorry, Stuart, but those burritos! Honestly…), or eating out at the same shitty restaurants (you’d need a chainsaw to carve through the baseball they call a steak at Montana’s- this is now a Justine jibe), but there’s no excuse. Toronto may not be New York, London or Paris in terms of restaurants, but with such a huge population and nearly every culture on Earth represented here in some way, the food has got to be good, and it is. Anyone who tells you otherwise hasn’t looked hard enough. So do yourself a favour and don’t attempt another burnt fiasco at home tonight. Throw on your jacket and start exploring the city. The fat kid broadly smiling inside you will be eternally grateful.
So what are your favourites, and where are you taking me to eat?